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Traveling Photography

(This article by me originally appeared on the now-defunct site Indicommons.org, which celebrated the Flickr Commons. It ran in July 2009. Rescued via archive.org in 2015. In 2025 I reformatted it and conjoined the diptychs.)

One of my favorite sets in The Commons is the New York Public Library’s Japan / Kusakabe Kimbei, one hundred hand-colored albumen prints from around the 1880s. It covers a wide range of classic tourist scenes of Japan, and has provided me long hours of research entertainment since last December when the NYPL joined the Flickr Commons. On a recent trip to Tokyo I was happy to upload a few more photos of the scenes “now,” and excitedly visited an exhibition of a Kimbei album held by the Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photography.

Travel photography spread out from Europe in the mid-1800s, reaching Japan with the arrival of Felice Beato in 1863. Beato leveraged highly skilled colorists from Japan’s domestic printing and advertising industry to add life to his black and white prints, creating works of art unique from other parts of the world. His apprentices spun off their own studios. One of these was Kusakabe Kimbei, who opened up shop in 1881. Within a few years, Kusakabe had a large array of photographs available by catalog: individually or in large, lacquer-bound volumes. The volumes offered a sampling of scenes from around Japan. These volumes remain in private and museum collections around the world, and NYPL has a fine example.

Added to Flickr Commons, NYPL’s uniquely provide a great public window on Japanese tourism history. They were taken at popular travel destinations such as Nikko or Kyoto, in remote locations along the Tokaido road, and in and around the foreign settlement at Yokohama. With a bit of web searching and cross-referencing — especially with the wonderfully annotated collection at Nagasaki University — more precise dates and locations can be provided for many of the photographs, and they can moreover be understood in context with each other.

 Grand Hotel on Yokohama’s waterfront

For example, this photo of the Grand Hotel on Yokohama’s waterfront.

View of Grand Hotel – Kusakabe Kimbei via NYPL ca 1890, and Google Street View from Yatozaka from 2017. If the current photo were taken from inside the Yokohama Hotel Feel, maybe from the roof deck, it would be perfect. The raised freeway is over the former waterway. And the grey building behind the tree, the Yokohama Doll museum, is where the Grand Hotel used to be.

Yokohama’s Maeda Bridge

The clues in online archives at Nagasaki University and the University of Washington, as well as photos hosted by Mitsubishi Electric and the Kanagawa Museum of Cultural History, send the camera spinning around the hotel and up the canal over a span of years. Finally, this leads to not only the location of the hotel, which is described on many Japanese sites, but to the actual positioning of the camera in the NYPL photo.

It’s a treacherous sport that can take several hours per photograph, but is rewarding more often than not. Recently a commenter in one Yokohama photograph wondered where it might have been taken. A quick look at a David Rumsey map of Yokohama and a Nagasaki University image provided the name of the bridge in the photo. Back and forth with other folks on Flickr leads to an understanding of where to take the photo today, and what it might look like.

Here is that image, along with a photo of the bridge today:

(At time of writing, I used a photo of Maeda Bridge taken by a fellow researcher as the now-ish view. It was shared after I pointed out where Kusakabe Kimbei’s 1880s photo was taken. Now in 2025 I’m using an image taken from Motomachi Hundred Step Park (Motomachi Hyakudan Koen) shared in Google Streetview.)

(While NYPL has a higher resolution copy available now on their site, I’m disappointed that they haven’t shared the comments we left on their Flickr image. I think it was useful research.)

Two photos of Yokohama's Bund, in the 1890s and 2010s
Kusakabe Kimbei 1890s “View of Yokohama”. When it was shared by NYPL to Flickr Commons, I determined where it was taken from — we’re looking down at Maeda Bridge from Motomachi Hyakudan Koen in Yokohama. The lower image is a Google street view from the park. I do hope to end up there somehow some day to take my own photo.

Ginza Intersection in Tokyo

Creating a “now and then” coupling of photos is truly satisfying, and always educational. Hunting down a photo that someone else has taken is great fun. But the true way to honor these travel photographs is to visit the spots yourself, and perhaps take a “now” shot, as I discovered this on a recent trip to Tokyo.

“Main Street Tokio”, Kusakabe Kimbei circa 1880 from NYPL found via Flickr. Recent photo by Rob Ketcherside in 2009. Taken just north of the remnants of the real Shimbashi underneath the Tokyo Expressway, at Ginza 8 intersection.

Temple Haiden in Shiba, Tokyo

“Temple Haiden at Shiba Tokio” by Kusakabe Kimbei circa 1890 via NYPL. Recent photo by Rob Ketcherside in 2009. Zojo-ji and the Toshogu at Shiba Park in Tokyo have changed quite a bit over the years. Apparently the Temple Haiden, seen in the “Then” photo, was essentially an entryway to the main building. Here we see the front of the main building.

Shinobadzu Pond in Tokyo’s Ueno Park

“Shinobadzu Pond”, Kusakabe Kimbei circa 1890 via NYPL. Recent photo by Rob Ketcherside in 2009. The west side of Ueno Park is dominated by Shinobazu Pond and an island in the center. The “Then” shot was likely taken from the top of the ridge, but thick trees obscure the view today. The path to the bridge has been widened, and a tall hotel stands in the distance behind the island. Seen in spring and summer, the pond is covered in lily pads.

View of Uyeno in Tokyo

“View of Uyeno Tokio” by Kusakabe Kimbei circa 1890 via NYPL. Recent photo by Rob Ketcherside in 2009. In the northern part of Ueno Park is “Great Buddha Hill” or Daibutsu-yama. Only the face of the great Buddha statue remains now, the rest was used to make bullets or jets in World War Two. The mask is mounted facing the wrong direction up in the grove of trees. The hill is now dominated by a very odd pagoda built in the 1960s.

Asakusa in Tokyo

“Asakusa Temple” Kusakabe Kimbei circa 1885 via NYPL. Recent photo by Rob Ketcherside in 2009. The pond’s gone, the pagoda’s gone, and the gate is shrouded in trees. This is at Senso-ji in Asakusa, Taito, Tokyo. The Benten temple still has a building, just behind us to our right. Discussion of location in NYPL’s Flickr post.

Akasaka in Tokyo (This one’s not a Kusakabe photograph.)

“akasaka, Tokyo” by unknown photographer in about 1890 via NYPL. Recent photo by Rob Ketcherside in 2009. This pedestrian bridge crosses Route 246 right at the remnants of the old Akasaka Lookout (赤坂見附, Akasaka Mitsuke) in Tokyo, Japan. The “Then” photo was taken from the same spot, on a spit of land that led from Edo Castle (behind us and to the right) to the start of the Ooyama Highway. “Now”, on the right is the center expressway tunnel entrance and beyond it is Benkei Moat, visible in the “Then” photo. The Outer Moat, visible in the “Then” photo to the left of the spit, has been filled in with buildings and “Outer Moat Road”.

Afterward

The discussion of the Yokohama photo happened after I got back, so it’s on the list to visit next time. [2025 update: I have not visited either Yokohama site in repeated visits. I have taken other rephotographs of Yokohama, though.

Coincidentally, the Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photography is running a series of exhibits this summer [summer of 2009] titled Traveling Photography (Tabi suru Shashin). The first installment features, among other images, 50 Kusakabe Kimbei prints from an album in the museum’s collection. I thought it would be nice to see them in person and look for images I recognize from NYPL, Nagasaki, and other collections. What I didn’t expect, though, was how utterly stunning they look. Compared with scanned, digital copies, the beauty of museum’s physical artifacts was brilliant. They shimmered with life, and their colors had a luminosity missing from normal developed film, and certainly from reproductions made for the exhibit book and even the hard-bound biography printed in 2006.

Now I’m hungry for more, and I hope everyone else is too. I’d love to see a traveling exhibit of Japanese travel photography, akin to the one in Tokyo but paired with “Now” photos from Flickr (I volunteer to take missing photographs, if there’s grant money lying around). It would feature holdings by many institutions — among Flickr Commons participants, at least George Eastman House, the Smithsonian, and the NYPL hold Kimbei photographs, and more likely have other old photos of Japan like the NYPL’s. These works of art need to get on the road, and be gawked at as they were originally intended

Further reading:

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